On our way to the first stop the Guru explained that the tour would be a reverse dining experience starting with desert. He explained the history of Singapore food, Hawker Centers and shared some funny stories and the fact that we would spend the evening in the East of the island to experience some true Peranakan cuisine. His a extremely knowledgeable, down to earth and funny man to say the least.
First stop, the Springleaf Eating House in Bedok South. The Guru introduced us to the "Chef", and master of Muah Chee, and we watched how he plucked the dough by hand, deep fry the little balls in palm oil and tossthem in ground nuts and sesame seeds. A seriously delicious snack with a unique combination of chewy and crunchy. We had to hold back as the evening was young.
Cheng Teng, a common sweet soup like dessert followed served cold and contained eight ingredients. This dessert will differ from stall to stall with ingredients like sweet potato, dried longan, barley, gingko nuts, lotus seeds and giant sago. Me and Zelma shared one an to be honest not something I will order again. It's not bad but I just don't like cold soup and that is that. Cheng Teng is believed to get rid of humidity and heat of the body.
We boarded the bus and on the way there the Guru explained the history of the Guan Hoe Soon restaurant which opened it's doors in 1953 and is the oldest Peranakan establishment in Singapore situated in the Joo Chiat area.
We were served 3 Peranakan favourites, Otak-Otak (cake made from fish meat and spices), Ayam Buah Kelauk (a Nonya tradition and basically a very distinct tasting chicken curry dish) and finally Nonya Chap Chye ( a stunning mix vegetable stew made with black bean paste and off course side servings of rice.
Restaurant owner, Raymond is third generation and I can highly recommend a visit. It's comfort food at its best and I ended up having two servings of each which would come back and haunt me dearly at our final destination. Mind blowing good food.
Back on the bus and the Guru had a quiz on what we thought our final destination and food experience would be. After some wild ideas and destinations he explained that this was a very special stall where a "one and a half man team" still prepare the Singapore national favourite by hand including the chilly paste. East Coast Park and Chili Crab and now I regretted my indiscretion at our previous stop.
We proceeded to our reserved table outside the Leng Heng BBQ stall, ordered some Tiger beers and gathered with our little group, Ken , Bibi and Avalone, and the Guru hovering between tables.
Another thee dishes were promptly served, flat bread stuffed with a prawns, Kiam Chey Ark (Salted Vegetable and Duck Soup) and a huge bowl of steaming Chili Crab with those little breads to scoop up the sauce
But luck was on my side. I was not the only one that was "stuffed" at this stage from all the food and although everybody at the table tasted all the dishes there was no "Big" impact made on that very nice Chili Crab. A short discussion about etiquette with Bibi and Avalone assured me that it was quite in order to take a "Doggie Bag" or Tah Paw (to take food home) with the Chili Crab.
I truly memorable, interesting and fun filled adventure which I can recommend to you all. Check out the tours on the Makansutra web page.
Special thanks to The Guru, Bibi, Kenn and Avalone and my wife Zelma for the great company and interesting discussions during the evening. 4 hours, 3 stops, 8 dishes and more fun than I have had in a very long time.
PS. Chili Crab is even better and extremely nice the next day and the fact that you are alone at home and can "pig out" to your hearts content with no worry about how messy it get's makes it even better.
On the way back on the bus I had a chat with the Guru about food in general and some of my food heroes. Turns out the Guru had taken Anthony Bourdain (my number one food hero) around in Singapore and he rated the Crab Bee Hoon at Sin Huat as the best in the world. It appears on the Bourdain "Places to Eat before you Die" at number 5. Apparently a bowl of this famous soup will set you back $79.
Anthony's Must Visit Restaurants List
Another must see for any Expats or even prospective Expats is the company Avalone works for called Ncompassmobility. Check it out for some very helpful programmes.
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